I was raised in northern New Jersey, where it was easy to find good "deli." In my world, "deli" refers to a good Jewish delicatessen -- a place where you can go up to the counter and order meats, either by the pound or by the sandwich. There were a few in relatively close proximity to where I grew up, but for a really authentic experience, a thirty minute trip into New York City was warranted. Here, you might also get a potato knish, some cole slaw, or a pickle picked out of a barrel (aka, barrel pickles). My favorite sandwich was always a classic hot pastrami with spicy mustard on rye bread. Occasionally, a good corned beef sandwich was a nice change, or if I wanted to really wanted to change it up, a pickled tongue and chopped liver sandwich would do it.
Now, living in Dayton, OH, it is difficult to find good deli -- the closest we have is Boar's Head meat at the deli counter of Kroger -- ugh. People who didn't grow up with my culinary diversity think this is okay, but I rarely find it truly satisfying. I have found decent deli in larger cities like Cleveland or Chicago, but that is a tough commute for a sandwich. So, for Father's Day, I decided to take matters into my own hands and try to make my own corned beef and pastrami. It was good -- and quite satisfying. Good enough to make a few tweaks and try it again for the July 4th weekend.
I initially didn't realize how much work it would be -- especially making pastrami. I now know why this is typically so much more expensive than, say, turkey breast or salami. The first thing to realize is that it takes a good two weeks to brine the meat, so I needed to plan well in advance of the day that I actually wanted the deli sandwiches. Second, I needed a good amount of space in the refrigerator for a 5-gallon bucket to hold the meat and brine solution.
So, about two weeks prior the day that I anticipated actually craving the meats, I started the process. I started with two 8-ish pound beef briskets. I figure it would be little more work to do two than it is for one. This is the same philosophy I have when cooking a thanksgiving turkey -- a 24 pound bird is no more work than a 14 pound one, and I end up with much more leftovers and a larger carcass for soup. But more on that another time.
Two briskets. I cut each of them roughly in half anticipating that I would be making both corned beef and pastrami. From the flat side of the brisket, which will become the corned beef, I took off much of the fat. Since this will ultimately be boiled, there is no need for the surface fat. From the point side of each piece, I took off much of the heavy fat build-up, but left a thin layer (maybe 1/4"). Since this will be smoked and steamed, the fat will help with both the moisture and flavor (lean pastrami? -- eww). I then lined a five-gallon bucket with a turkey roasting bag (perfect fit) in preparation for the meat and brine. I made a brine using salt, sugar, pink pickling salt, and pickling spice*, and put both the brine and meat into the bucket. I pressed out as much air as possible, ensuring that the brine totally encased all of the meat. Creating space in our extra refrigerator, I put it away so the magic could happen.
Two weeks later, I opened the bucket to prepare cooking the meat. I pulled each piece of the flats out and put them directly into a pot. I added a few handfuls of the pickling spice from the brine, covered the meat with water and set it on a low simmer. About four hours later, the meat was fork-tender, and the corned beef was done.
For the point pieces, I rinsed each piece, and put them on the grids of my smoker. I coated each piece with a mixture of black pepper, ground coriander, and granulated garlic, and smoked them for about 5 hours using hickory chips. After smoking, I removed the pieces and put them on the stove to steam for about 2 hours, until they were fork tender. During the steaming process, the kitchen smelled incredible -- everyone who walked into the kitchen had the mouth-watering, eyes-glazed look of anticipation asking every few minutes "is it done yet?"
Anticipating that Sunday afternoon would be the perfect day for corned beef and pastrami sandwiches, I finished cooking on Saturday evening, and put all of the meat into the refrigerator. On Sunday, I sliced the meat pretty thin using a borrowed electric slicer. I then invited several friends and family over for sandwiches and homemade coleslaw. When people arrived, I heated up a few pounds of the sliced meat and served them on fresh rye bread with a bowl of pickles and pickled tomatoes made by my brother.
The best compliment I got was when one of my friends was leaving. He said, "let me know when you are making this again so I can make sure my calendar is clear."
* I want to give a shout-out to my friends at the Miami Valley Spice Traders in Centerville, OH. I used their fabulous pickling spice and ground coriander for this process. All of their spices are much fresher and much higher quality than supermarket spices. Plus, they will make any custom blends or grind anything to your specifications.
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